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El Farolito

2779 Mission St, San Francisco, CA

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El Farolito has run a 24-hour taqueria at the corner of Mission and 24th Street for decades, owned by Salvador Lopez and grown into a small Bay Area chain of roughly a dozen locations while keeping the original Mission storefront as the one most identified with the name. It's a cash-only counter — an ATM sits inside for anyone who forgets — that's stayed genuinely unpretentious even as its reputation has spread well past the neighborhood. The super burrito is the item most associated with the taqueria — a genuinely oversized, forearm-length burrito stuffed with meat, beans, and cheese — but the tacos built on small corn tortillas get just as much loyalty from regulars who prefer them to the more famous burrito. El Farolito's salsa bar has its own following, with a lighter, herb-forward green salsa built specifically to cut through the richness of the taqueria's slow-cooked meats. Being open around the clock has shaped the taqueria's identity as much as any single menu item: El Farolito is as much a late-night institution for people leaving Mission District bars as it is a lunch spot, a role few other taquerias on this list are built to fill given more conventional hours. Salvador Lopez's connection to San Francisco's Mission District runs beyond the restaurant itself — he's also the owner behind El Farolito Soccer Club, a well-regarded local team that's carried the taqueria's name into an entirely different arena of neighborhood pride. That crossover between a 24-hour taco counter and a competitive local soccer club is a distinctly Mission District kind of institution-building. For a San Francisco taco list, El Farolito is the essential "24-hour Mission institution" entry — corn tortilla tacos and forearm-length burritos served around the clock from a taqueria whose name extends well beyond its own counter.

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